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Changing your computer’s power supply is a simple enough process that anyone can do, once you know how. This guide will teach you how to replace/change the power supply unit in your computer, step by step. We’ll also look at the main reasons why you would need to change or upgrade your computer’s power supply, and things to look out for when choosing a replacement unit so that you can get one that’s going to last. These steps apply to tower and desktop computers. The entire process can be done within around 5-20 minutes, depending on how familiar you are with the task. Tools required Screwdriver to remove power supply unit and open computer case usually Phillips head Optional Anti-static wrist strap if not using a strap, just discharge yourself by touching any exposed metal part of your computer case before you begin the job. Overview Once you’ve identified that you need to replace the power supply unit in your tower or desktop computer, follow the steps below. The replacement is simple enough, first you’ll need to remove the old power supply, and then install the new one in its place. Disconnecting and connecting the power supply is straightforward – you just need to make sure that you plug/unplug it in to all the right connection points inside your computer if you’re not sure about this, refer to the checklist and pictures later in this article. Remember, the power supply’s main function is to provide power to all of the different hardware components in your PC, so you just need to make sure that it is plugged into each one correctly. A typical power supply consists of the main box-shaped unit, as well as the attached internal wiring- you’ll need to plug the relevant connectors into the various hardware components inside your computer. The good news is that if you are replacing an existing power supply, you can just follow the same cabling connections that you just unplugged from the old power supply as a guide. This makes it easy to know what plugs in to where, as you’re simply replicating what was already there. Stage 1 Removing the Old Power Supply Unit Before you begin anything, make sure that your computer is powered off and unplugged from the wall socket. Removing the power supply from your computer is fairly simple, and you can follow the steps below. If you’re unsure, it can help to take a photo of the power supply arrangement before your unplug anything – this way you can make sure that you re-connect everything you’re supposed to later on. The bulk of the task in replacing your computer’s power supply is plugging in the power connectors from the PSU to all the hardware components inside your computer. This is the largest one that plugs into your motherboard. How To Remove An Existing Power Supply Power off the computer and unplug the power cable from the wall socket and power supply unit. If your PSU has one, flick its power switch to the off position. Open up your computer case – usually the inside of the case is accessed by unscrewing the fastening screws on the back edge of the case, and sliding the side panel off. It’s usually easiest to work with the computer laying flat on its side, with the components facing up at you. Note down the existing internal connections from the power supply to the components in your computer it can help to take a photo, or count the number of connections that are plugged in. You’ll need to reconnect these to the new supply later. Unplug any hardware connectors that are attached to the power supply wiring. Pull each cable clear out of the case as you unplug it – this will help prevent cables snagging on things when removing the unit later and also acts as a visual check so you can check that everything is unplugged. Checklist for disconnection a Motherboard b CPU c Any Storage Drives and/0r Optical Disc Drives d Graphics card if applicable e Fans if applicable The power supply is held into the computer case by mounting screws. Locate and unscrew these. Remove the old power supply unit and cabling. Stage 2 Changing to the New Power Supply Unit Installing the replacement power supply unit is basically the reverse of the steps you did to remove the old PSU. If you haven’t changed any of the hardware in your computer, simply plug the cables from the new PSU back in to each component, replicating how it was before. If you have changed some hardware components like a new graphics card, for example, you’ll just need to make sure that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions for supplying it with power via the appropriate header connector. How To Install A New Power Supply Mount the new power supply unit into the computer case by using the case mounting screws. Reconnect the internal wiring from the output of the power supply unit to the hardware components inside your computer case. Be sure to refer to the notes/photos that you took in the removal stage to make sure that all the components are reconnected. Checklist for reconnection a Motherboard b CPU power connector c Hard drives, Solid state drives, Optical drives d Any power connections needed by your graphics card – if required not all graphics cards models require power from the PSU e Fans if applicable f Refer to your notes/photos of what was previously connected, and do a final check on all connectors to make sure they’re secure Close up the computer case. Plug in the input cable to the power supply. Connects the wall socket to the power supply. If your new PSU has a power switch, don’t forget to flick it to the on position. Power up the computer and test. Reasons To Change a Power Supply Unit There are only really two main reasons why you would need to replace the power supply unit in your computer, and if neither of these concerns you then the good news is that you can probably leave it alone. Reason 1 The PSU is dead won’t power on or faulty Reason 2 The PSU is not fit for purpose What do we mean by not fit for purpose’? Basically, this means that the power supply won’t reliably do what its intended to do – power your computer components safely and reliably. PSUs that are not fit for purpose generally fall into two categories The rated power output capacity of the PSU is too low Usually, this can happen if you are upgrading components in your computer that require more power. The rated power output of a PSU is measured in Watts, and must be high enough to supply all the components within your computer. A classic example of when the power output of your PSU may suddenly become too low is if you are upgrading other components in your computer. For example, installing a new graphics card that requires more power consumption can in many cases trigger the need to replace the existing power supply to a unit with a higher output capacity. The PSU is a cheap brand or of low quality The power supply might be cheap and you don’t trust it. Unfortunately this can be the case with many pre-built computers, as cutting the budget spending on the PSU is very common. We recommend doing a little bit of research online on your particular brand/model of power supply to make sure it doesn’t have a reputation for blowing up or failing. How Do I Know What Size Power Supply I Should Have? Power supply size’ can mean two things, but usually refers to the output capacity of the unit measured in Watts. Output Capacity The output capacity of your computer’s power supply needs to be high enough to supply enough power to all of the components inside your computer case at the same time. Prebuilt Computers If you have a prebuilt computer, the designers would have calculated the maximum power requirements at any one time, and sized the PSU according to that – so you shouldn’t need to worry about the size of the PSU in your computer in this case. One thing you may have to worry about with prebuilt computers though, is the quality of the power supply. If it is a cheap/no-name brand, it may cause issues. DIY Computer Builds If you are building your own computer, then you need to work out the maximum power draw on your own in order to size your PSU. You can use calculators like this one to help you figure it out. Usually, the largest power-sucking component is your graphics card if you have a dedicated one. Many graphics card manufacturers have a minimum total system power’ recommendation in their graphics card specifications that can be used as a guideline to the total power supply size you’ll need if you want to build a computer with this graphics card. The manufacturer’s specifications for the Geforce GTX 1060 show that the minimum system power requirement is 400W. This means you’ll need to have at least a 400W power supply in your computer if you want to run this graphics card. Source GeForce Website Form Factor However, be aware that Size’ can also refer to the physical size dimensions of the power supply unit this can also be referred to as form factor’, which is the shape and general physical layout of a component. Not all power supply units are the same physical size, so you’ll definitely want to be aware of this before trying to swap out one unit for another – as the worst thing that can happen is to find out that the new one won’t physically fit where you want it to! Why You Should Care About What Power Supply Unit Is In Your Computer Remember that the power supply unit is responsible for supplying power to every hardware component that makes up your computer system. When it comes to power, there’s such a thing as quality too – when we talk about power quality, it means that the power being supplied is clean, constant, and within the expected operating limits. If you have a low-quality power supply, it may not supply a good quality power to the hardware components in your computer – which can cause performance issues, or at the extreme end of the scale, even damage or reduce the lifespan of your hardware. Unfortunately, many manufacturers of prebuilt computers tend to spend a lot of their budget on fitting in high spec’d items like a processor and graphics card – but then skimping on the power supply. The end result can be disastrous, just google something like power supply blew up’ to get an idea of what can happen… Caution Output Ratings Can Sometimes Be Misleading Cheaper brands can even tend to exaggerate their PSU’s output capacity rating example We’ve seen units to be a 300W power supply, but if you take a closer look, the rating is a 300W peak rating and the continuous rating may be less than this. If you’re planning on installing a new graphics card and still using your existing power supply unit, make sure to check the output rating first. Be especially careful to check for any trick ratings on no-name brand PSUs if you are pushing the upper limits of your existing rated power supply unit. It’s usually safer to oversize your PSU, just to be sure!. It’s really important to make sure your power supply is decent in order to protect your other hardware components and ensure they have a long life. 80 Plus Certification One certification to look out for is the 80+ certification, which means that the power supply is at least efficient and has less than 20% losses. While this is not specifically related to overall quality of a PSU, the fact that the PSU you’re considering buying has a certification of some sort is an indication that the manufacturers have considered quality at some level. What Brands To Use One of our favorite recommended brands of power supplies is EVGA because we like their warranty on some of their products its up to 10 years!, but there are plenty of reputable brands out there. Top-of-the-line/premium brands are ones like Seasonic and Superflower. If you’re looking for something a little more budget-friendly, then brands like SilverStone, Cooler Master, Corsair, Thermaltake and EVGA are all decent as well. Again – don’t forget to look for the 80 Plus ratings! Deending on the brand and Watt rating, prices can vary. Summary Changing the power supply unit in your computer is a relatively easy task that anyone can do – just follow the steps outlined in this post. You only need to replace your computer’s PSU if it is faulty or damaged, or if it’s not fit for purpose either a cheap/unreputable brand, or no longer large enough for your needs. If you’re upgrading other components within your computer – particularly graphics cards – this can trigger the need to replace your existing power supply unit for a larger one. Output capacity of a PSU is measured in Watts and should be calculated based on your other computer hardware – you can use online calculators or manufacturer’s specifications to help you find the required PSU size that you need. Make sure to stay safe when switching out hardware components in your PC, by turning off mains power before you access any internal parts of your computer. Have you replaced the PSU in your computer before and did you find it easy enough? Do you have any other questions about how to swap out the power supply in your computer? Let us know in the comments below!
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Berawal dari banyaknya stock PSU Power Supply Unit bekas PC yang nganggur, sebagian udah dipretelin untuk diambil elco,kipas,toroid,transistor dan lain sebagainya. Biasanya PC yang nggak bisa hidup atau sering restart cukup diganti PSU nya langsung ON, padahal PSU tersebut belum tentu rusak hanya saja bagian tertentu yang lemah atau ngedrop dan biasanya yang 12 volt masih bagus. Berikut ini tabel tegangan dan ampere pada sebuah PSU Komputer+ Volt / 15 A => ORANYE+ 5 Volt / 30 A => MERAH+ 12 Volt / 18 A => KUNING- 12 Volt / A => BIRU+ 5 Volt / 2 A => UNGUGROUND => HITAMSWITCH ON => HIJAU disambung ke hitamNiatnya yang 12volt/18A di modif jadi namun hampir semua tutorial nya memakai IC TL-494 sedangkan semua PSU yang udah dibongkar nggak ada satupun memakai IC tersebut, ya udah 12volt ajah cukup lagian nyetel musiknya nggak gembrang-gembreng atau di perbesar dayanya namun saya rasa cukup misal 12volt x10 A = 120 Watt , sedangkan car audio 2x50WattAwalnya saya coba PSU merk Simbadda langsung ke car audio tanpa di modif, ternyata masih ada suara dengung, coba ganti 2 buah elco yang keluaran dari 12volt aslinya 1000/16v diganti dengan 2200/25v dan 3300/25v, suara dengung hilang dan qualitas sound jadi oke dibandingkan dengan power supply sebelumnya menggunakan trafo 5Amper 12volt CT. Lebih irit biaya dan tagihan listrik nggak motor fungsinya agar tetap menyimpan settingan memory frekwensi radio dan bass-trebleKebetulan ada aki motor Honda Beat nganggur, pasang langsung ke car audio, kabel hitam dari PSU ke kutub negatif lalu kabel positifnya diganjel dulu dengan dioda 5Amper, maksudnya agar ketika audio dan PLN OFF kipas di PSU tidak berputar terus dan menyebabkan aki habis harusnya dibuatkan switch untuk memutus arus dan power on...belom sempat ajah jika ingin ngecharge sekalian PSU harus dimodif ke 14-15voltUntuk merk lain seperti SUN,MENTARI atau DAZUMBA cukup ganti 1 elco saja minimal 3300/25v atau jika muat di pcb dan box nya dan itu pun jika diberi silang biru boleh digantiSARAN & TIPS Jangan langsung oprek PSU yang baru dicolok ke PLN karena masih ada tegangan sisa 400volt ada elco diseri 200v+200v diamkan dulu seharian atau kalau Anda berani konsletkan dengan obeng gepeng yang lebar ke masing-masing elco 200volt, akan terdengar ledakan..... hahaha pengalaman servis lampu kilat dan ngeliat temen bikin radio tabung 80 meteran .Coba PSU test langsung ke perangkat elektronik dengan menyambung kabel hijau dan hitam, apabila tidak ada dengung atau kelainan lainnya PSU nggak perlu dioprek Sisakan kabel yang seperlunya saja biar keliatan rapi, semua kabel hitam dan kuning dikepang dan 1 hijau untuk power on, barangkali untuk charge hp gunakan kabel ungu dan hitam Pastikan tegangan sesuai kebutuhan perangkat, router wi-fi saya beri 12volt malah jebol, harusnya 9volt, jika ingin 9volt kan bisa diberi IC 7809 + elco secukupnya Jangan sambungkan kabel hijau+hitam secara permanen, PSU jadi sulit hidup => gunakan switch ON/OFF Sambungkan kabel ke casing atau kabel hitam ke tanah/tembus ubin dengan paku min 10cm agar tidak nyetrum jika pegang body car audio atau kabel-kabel lainnya, gunakan testpen untuk memastikan tidak ada lagi tegangan induksi, tegangan tersebut tidak berbahaya tapi cukup membuat Kita kaget. Nggak semua PSU bocor induksi ada yang cukup colokan ke PLN dibalik, namun jarang sekali ,...kalo saya sih biasa kesetrum induksi jadi nggak kaget, kecuali jika kaki atau tangan sedang basah cukup pakai sendal biar tidak ada koneksi ke bumi.
CaraMerubah Trafo Non Ct Jadi Ct. Here are a number of highest rated Cara Merubah Trafo Non Ct Jadi Ct pictures on internet. Skema Adaptor 5 Ampere 12 Volt Menggunakan Trafo Ct Non Ct Gambar . Image by Merubah Trafo Ac Dc Menjadi Ct Alva S Blog . Image by Agusalfa.com Modif Psu Komputer Jadi 24 Volt Ct Wikiedukasi - Informasi perihal Modif Psu Komputer Jadi 24 Volt dapat Anda temukan di sini secara detail. Modif Psu Komputer Jadi 24 Volt – Kebutuhan catu daya untuk percobaan sehari-hari sangat penting dan diperlukan untuk berbagai rangkaian yang akan dipraktekkan, perubahan tegangan yang diperlukan seringkali berbeda dari 3V, 5V, 12V, 15V, dll. tergantung pada rangkaian, selain tegangan yang berubah, arus yang dibutuhkan juga harus mencukupi. Variable power supply ada bermacam-macam di pasaran, dari versi analog hingga digital, tapi tentunya dengan harga yang cukup lumayan, cukup untuk menjaga isi kantong heheh. Pada artikel sebelumnya, saya membuat beberapa rangkaian yang dapat dianggap sebagai catu daya variabel analog karena memiliki kemampuan untuk mengatur tegangan output secara bervariasi, dan saya telah lama menggunakannya untuk memantau kegiatan eksperimental pada proyek elektronik ringan sebelumnya dengan arus sedang, hingga 3A dengan pengaturan tegangan maksimum 15V melalui potensiometer. Baca Cepat1 Modif Psu Komputer Jadi 24 Modifikasi Power Supply Komputer switching Cara Merakit Amplifier Plus Radio Bluetooth & 2 Mic Bisa Power Suply Komputer Adjuse 0 21v, 10a By Elza Noval2 Ups Modif Modifikasi Aki External Vektor Ablerex 625va Garansi 1 Bulan3 Cara Membuat Trafo Biasa Non Ct Menjadi Ct Untuk Sirkit Simetris Modif Psu Komputer Jadi 24 Volt Berhubung saya memiliki beberapa koleksi PSU ATX atau power supply komputer di rumah dan sudah lama tidak digunakan, maka saya akan mencoba untuk menggantinya menjadi power supply variabel, mengingat sudah banyak artikel yang merubah kinerja komputer ini. . power supply agar outputnya bisa diatur, tidak ada salahnya untuk dicoba. Dari beberapa perlengkapan komputer yang saya miliki, dua menggunakan ic pwm tl494 atau ka7500. Mengapa Anda harus menggunakan ic tl494? Ya, alasan utamanya adalah sangat mudah untuk dimodifikasi karena ic tl494 di dalamnya memilih dua penguat kesalahan untuk digunakan sebagai pengatur tegangan dan arus untuk output. Modifikasi Power Supply Komputer switching Perubahan hanya dilakukan pada dua pin penguat error, yaitu pin 1 dan pin 2, serta pin 15 dan pin 16. Pin 1 dan pin 2 digunakan sebagai pengaturan tegangan, dengan pin 1 sebagai limit dan pin 2 sebagai pengaturan tegangan sementara pin 15 dan pin 16 digunakan sebagai pengaturan pembatas arus, dengan pin 15 digunakan sebagai pengaturan arus dan pin 16 digunakan sebagai pembatas arus. Satu hal lagi agar psu atx tidak diproteksi ketika tegangan output lebih dari 12V maka pin 4 Dead Time harus dimatikan atau diputus dari rangkaian proteksi jadi pin 4 harus 0V. Dengan mematikan pin 4 maka output psu atx dapat diatur menjadi 25 V yaitu catu daya sekunder harus diganti karena memiliki kelas tegangan maksimum hanya 16V, diganti dengan catu daya yang memiliki tegangan maksimum kelas 50V. Setelah itu perlu melepas rangkaian proteksi dan komponen lain pada sekunder agar tidak terganggu saat melakukan penyetelan. Jika Anda akan melakukan penyesuaian sederhana, yaitu penambahan hanya dua potensi untuk mengatur tegangan dan arus, saya akan menunjukkan diagram sebagai berikut. Cara Merakit Amplifier Plus Radio Bluetooth & 2 Mic Bisa Karaoke Namun saya tertarik untuk melakukan penyesuaian dengan lcd 16×2 dan rotary encoder sebagai pengatur tegangan dan arus setelah menonton video di youtube. Di bawah ini adalah rangkaian kontrol untuk mengatur pin penguat error ic tl494 atx psu. Skema di atas saya rancang dengan layout yang menarik, namun saya rancang dalam dua lapisan, karena saya tidak ingin membuat PCB sendiri seperti dulu, karena sekarang sudah ada pabrik PCB profesional yang bisa membuat PCB dengan kualitas premium, namun dengan harga yang terjangkau. harga. , yang hanya $5. saya bisa mendapatkan 10 pcs 10cm x 10cm PCB dengan proses cepat dan pilihan warna menarik yang berbeda, saya mencetak PCB di situs PCBWay. Oh ya, jika Anda belum pernah memesan PCB di PCBWay sebelumnya, maka pertama kali Anda mendaftar untuk akun PCBWay dan memesan, Anda akan mendapatkan kredit pembayaran $5 gratis, jadi pesanan PCBWay pertama Anda gratis! Jadi tunggu apa lagi, daftarkan akun PCBWay Anda sekarang juga. Kontroler ATXPSU yang dapat diatur ini menggunakan mikrokontroler ATmega328 untuk menampilkan tegangan dan arus yang disetel pada layar LCD 16X2 dan rotary encoder sebagai tombol pengatur. Sedangkan kode program sedang dibuat menggunakan flowcode 4, jika ingin membuatnya bisa download filenya disini. Power Suply Komputer Adjuse 0 21v, 10a By Elza Noval Kami penasaran dengan hasilnya, jadi mari tonton video pembuatan, kalibrasi, dan pengujian yang secara akurat menunjukkan voltase. Saya mencoba mendownload artikel dari SC835 Dirgantara Jawa Timur tentang PSU SWITCHING ODIFICATION COMPUTER SWITCHING PSU ODIFICATION Secara hukum, power supply switching memiliki 2 driver penting, yaitu osilator yang digunakan untuk mengambil sampel arus listrik dan sebagai penentu besarnya dari tegangan yang diberikan Tail Izin membuka Tret untuk membahas PSU untuk pesawat HT/RIG… baik DIY maupun Branded. Citation ODIFICATION SWITCHING KOMPUTER Catu daya switching memiliki 2 pengontrol penting menurut hukum, yaitu osilator yang digunakan untuk mengambil sampel arus listrik dan sebagai penentu besarnya tegangan sampel, biasanya dilakukan oleh IO TL-494. Dan pemrosesan arus dan tegangan biasanya dilakukan oleh IC L-339. Untuk CPU PSU, pemrosesan tegangan biasanya hingga 16V, jadi jika Anda membutuhkan output Anda tidak perlu memodifikasi modul ini. Namun, jika Anda membutuhkan arus keluaran lebih besar dari 18A PSU asing berbeda, modifikasi modul ini diperlukan. Sesuai dengan kebutuhan di atas, beberapa poin disesuaikan sebagai berikut. Ingat untuk selalu memutuskan catu daya AC selama odifikasi, BAHAYA!!!. Terdapat 6 resistor yang langsung disambungkan pada pin 1 IC TL-494 yaitu 3 resistor paralel dengan ground 120K, 56K dan 18k, ketiga resistor ini tidak mengalami perubahan apapun. Selain itu, 3 resistor tetap, yaitu 15K terhubung ke output + 4k7 ke +5V dan 27K ke +12V. Lepaskan ketiga resistor. Ganti resistor 27K yang dilepas di atas dengan resistor 10K dan Tripot 20K, tegangan output 13,8V diperoleh sekitar 26,6K. Anda dapat menyesuaikan tegangan output melalui dudukan. Lepaskan kapasitor elektrolit 1500uF/16V pada output +12V dan ganti dengan kapasitor baru dengan kapasitas tegangan kerja yang lebih tinggi, mis. 35V, 50V, dll. Komponen ini berfungsi sebagai penyeimbang arus, sehingga semakin besar kapasitasnya, semakin baik. Gunakan 2 buah secara paralel satu sama lain pada 3300uF/50V. Karena peralihan PSU memerlukan arus keluaran yang konstan pada keluaran, tambahkan resistor 100 Ohm/2W secara paralel dengan kapasitor elektrolit di atas. Ini memastikan arus konstan 138A. Dalam kondisi standar, fungsi resistor ini digantikan oleh kipas/kipas angin 12V yang akan berputar meskipun power supply menyala, namun bagaimana jika fan/hiburan tersebut suatu saat rusak, power supply anda akan rusak. Jadi keberadaan resistor beban ini sangat penting dalam sebuah PSU switching. Langkah-langkah berikut adalah OPSIONAL Tambahkan filter PHI ke output untuk mengurangi kebisingan yang disebabkan oleh osilator PW yang digunakan dalam PSU ini. Yaitu dengan 2 kapasitor memo asing 470pf dan induktor sekitar 100uH. Untuk membuat induktor, gunakan toroid melingkar dengan diameter kira-kira. 13 dan kumparan dengan diameter 1 dalam 4 putaran. Jika Anda ingin meminimalkan noise dari jaringan PLN, Anda dapat menambahkan filter tambahan. Penetapan Pin ATX Karena hanya diperlukan output lepaskan semua kabel output PSU standar dan ganti dengan kabel yang sesuai pada output dan ground +12V. Untuk menyalakan PSU ini, hidupkan remote power dengan menghubungkan port PWR kabel hijau ke ground kabel hitam. Jadi, Anda perlu menambahkan kabel dan sakelar untuk mengaktifkannya. Pasang kembali fan/fan clutch ke posisi semula dan modifikasi selesai. Atur langkah-langkahnya ke Pasang AVO digital, atur untuk mengukur tegangan, lalu putar dudukan secara perlahan hingga mencapai Untuk memastikan tegangan tidak turun saat dibebani dengan bohlam RIG atau 60W 12V. Ikuti langkah-langkah di atas sampai Anda mencapai tegangan yang diinginkan. Selamat mencoba…! Ups Modif Modifikasi Aki External Vektor Ablerex 625va Garansi 1 Bulan Ohoón untuk senior untuk mengisi ulang / memperbaiki jika terjadi kesalahan. atau mau share/review PSU yang sudah di tag agar newbie seperti ini bisa menambah masalah PSU ini. cinta menangis Lebih bagus lagi kalau yang lebih tua membocorkan skemanya agar bisa membuat source sendiri…hehehe tapi sayang harga trafonya gila…awkoawkaow Citation Source Radio Switching Koputer Radio source urah dari PSU Koputer, untuk mendapatkan power supply yang berkualitas yang dapat digunakan sebagai power adapter untuk radio RIG/HT dengan harga yang murah, tahan panas dan tentunya handal pasti dicari oleh para pecinta radio konteks . Pada postingan sebelumnya yang berjudul Memodifikasi power supply komputer untuk power supply radio, banyak pertanyaan dari rekan-rekan yang mencoba dan memodifikasinya untuk berbagai keperluan, seperti pengganti trafo linier yang besar dan harga yang mahal. pic Power Switching saat ini sudah sangat dikenal dan banyak digunakan oleh masyarakat, karena ukurannya yang lebih kecil dibandingkan dengan menggunakan daya linier yang besar dan berat, walaupun kecil daya yang dihasilkan juga tidak lebih buruk dari daya linier yang menggunakan trafo besar, Postingan kali ini, silahkan coba disimak lagi, bukan karena sekedar banyak pertanyaan, tapi karena saya berbagi ilmu tentang hasil tes, semoga bisa menjadi referensi yang berkesan bagi rekan-rekan yang ingin mencoba membuat gerbong atau sesuaikan catu daya komputer agar dapat digunakan sesuai kebutuhan. Modifikasi power supply komputer yang digunakan kali ini adalah Powerlogic 450 watt dengan output +3,3 Volt / 15 A >> Orange + 5 Volt / 22 A >> Merah + 12 Volt / 12 A >> Kuning – 12 Volt / 0,5 A >> Biru + 5 Volt / 2 A >> Ungu Ini adalah tegangan dan arus keluaran dari catu daya komputer ereksi Cara Membuat Trafo Biasa Non Ct Menjadi Ct Untuk Sirkit Simetris Kipas mobil 24 volt, lampu 24 volt, charger aki 24 volt, lampu halogen 24 volt, led 24 volt, aki 24 volt, lampu led 24 volt, harga accu 24 volt, harga aki 24 volt, klakson denso 24 volt, dinamo 24 volt dc, motor dc 24 volt Itulah informasi seputar Modif Psu Komputer Jadi 24 Volt yang bisa kami paparkan mudah-mudahan Artikel tersebut bisa memenuhi informasi yang dicari selama ini.
jadilangsung pada eksekusi, contoh model kit amplifier speaker aktif yang sederhana (agar mudah dipahami) lihat gambar baik-baik dan ganti komponen yang dilingkari merah. Kalau tidak salah speaker aktif alto seri TS115A menggunakan PSU switching regulator bukan trafo dan jernis amplifier klas D dengan final monfet, jika benar dibutuhkan
Tips Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Jika Anda ingin membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt center tapped CT namun tidak ingin membeli PSU baru, maka modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang tepat. Berikut adalah tips modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT1. Pahami Prinsip Kerja PSU Komputer Sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, Anda harus memahami prinsip kerjanya terlebih dahulu. PSU komputer mengubah arus AC menjadi DC dengan menggunakan transformator dan dioda. Transformator biasanya memiliki dua kumparan yang masing-masing menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Untuk mendapatkan 24 volt, Anda perlu menggabungkan dua kumparan tersebut dengan cara center Siapkan Alat dan Bahan Untuk memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda memerlukan beberapa alat dan bahan seperti solder, kabel, saklar, dan resistor. Pastikan Anda memiliki semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan sebelum memulai Matikan PSU Komputer Sebelum memulai modifikasi, pastikan PSU komputer telah dimatikan dan dicabut dari sumber daya listrik. Ini sangat penting untuk menghindari kecelakaan dan kerusakan pada komponen Buka Casing PSU Komputer Untuk memodifikasi PSU komputer, Anda perlu membuka casing PSU terlebih dahulu. Pastikan Anda melakukan ini dengan hati-hati dan memperhatikan bagaimana casing tersebut Identifikasi Kumparan Transformator Setelah membuka casing PSU komputer, identifikasi kumparan transformator yang menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Biasanya, kumparan ini diberi label “12V” atau “V12” di Hubungkan Kumparan Transformator Setelah mengidentifikasi kumparan transformator, hubungkan kabel dari tengah-tengah kumparan tersebut ke saklar. Kemudian, hubungkan kabel dari kedua ujung kumparan ke Pasang Resistor Resistor yang digunakan harus memiliki nilai yang sama. Jika kumparan transformator menghasilkan 12 volt dan 2 ampere, maka resistor yang dibutuhkan adalah 2 buah resistor 12 ohm 1 Buat Grounding Pastikan Anda membuat grounding dengan baik. Ini sangat penting untuk menghindari kebocoran arus dan kerusakan pada komponen Pasang Saklar Pasang saklar pada kabel yang menghubungkan tengah-tengah kumparan transformator dengan resistor. Saklar ini digunakan untuk memilih tegangan 12 volt atau 24 Pasang Kembali Casing PSU Setelah selesai memodifikasi PSU komputer, pasang kembali casing PSU dengan hati-hati. Pastikan semua kabel dan komponen terpasang dengan baik dan Terbaru tentang Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang tepat untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, pastikan Anda memahami prinsip kerjanya dan memiliki semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan. Selain itu, Anda juga perlu memperhatikan keamanan saat memodifikasi PSU komputer. Pastikan PSU komputer telah dimatikan dan dicabut dari sumber daya listrik sebelum memulai modifikasi. Dalam modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda juga perlu memperhatikan grounding dan hubungan kabel dengan baik. Jangan sampai terjadi kebocoran arus atau kerusakan pada komponen lainnya. Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang murah dan efektif untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, pastikan Anda melakukan modifikasi dengan hati-hati dan memperhatikan semua faktor yang Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Berikut adalah tutorial modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT1. Pahami Prinsip Kerja PSU Komputer Sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, pahami terlebih dahulu prinsip kerjanya. PSU komputer mengubah arus AC menjadi DC dengan menggunakan transformator dan dioda. Transformator biasanya memiliki dua kumparan yang masing-masing menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Untuk mendapatkan 24 volt, Anda perlu menggabungkan dua kumparan tersebut dengan cara center Siapkan Alat dan Bahan Siapkan semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan seperti solder, kabel, saklar, dan Matikan PSU Komputer Matikan PSU komputer dan cabut dari sumber daya Buka Casing PSU Komputer Buka casing PSU komputer dengan hati-hati dan perhatikan bagaimana casing tersebut Identifikasi Kumparan Transformator Identifikasi kumparan transformator yang menghasilkan tegangan 12 volt. Biasanya, kumparan ini diberi label “12V” atau “V12” di Hubungkan Kumparan Transformator Hubungkan kabel dari tengah-tengah kumparan transformator ke saklar. Kemudian, hubungkan kabel dari kedua ujung kumparan ke Pasang Resistor Pasang resistor yang memiliki nilai yang sama dengan kumparan transformator. Jika kumparan transformator menghasilkan 12 volt dan 2 ampere, maka resistor yang dibutuhkan adalah 2 buah resistor 12 ohm 1 Buat Grounding Buat grounding dengan baik untuk menghindari kebocoran arus dan kerusakan pada komponen Pasang Saklar Pasang saklar pada kabel yang menghubungkan tengah-tengah kumparan transformator dengan resistor. Saklar ini digunakan untuk memilih tegangan 12 volt atau 24 Pasang Kembali Casing PSU Pasang kembali casing PSU dengan hati-hati dan pastikan semua kabel dan komponen terpasang dengan baik dan rapi. Dengan mengikuti tutorial di atas, Anda bisa memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT dengan mudah dan Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt CT Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang tepat untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, sebelum memodifikasi PSU komputer, pastikan Anda memahami prinsip kerjanya dan memiliki semua alat dan bahan yang diperlukan. Dalam modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda juga perlu memperhatikan grounding dan hubungan kabel dengan baik. Jangan sampai terjadi kebocoran arus atau kerusakan pada komponen lainnya. Namun, jika Anda berhasil memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT, Anda bisa menghemat biaya dan memiliki sumber daya yang efektif untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Overall, modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt CT bisa menjadi solusi yang murah dan efektif untuk membangun rangkaian elektronik yang membutuhkan daya 24 volt. Namun, pastikan Anda melakukan modifikasi dengan hati-hati dan memperhatikan semua faktor yang diperlukan.
OriginalPosted By jz19haa Mau nanya bisa modif keluar voltasenya psu switching ericsson atau emerson biar bs dipake di booster vhf.?kan aslinya keluar antara 12-24 atau 24-48 volt.mksdnya dimodif biar keluarnya antara 10-15 volt aja.makasih sebelumnya.

The power supply or “PSU” is the electrical heart of your PC. And if yours has recently stopped beating, or you’re upgrading your computer with more powerful components, you need a new one. Choosing a new power supply can be tricky, since you’ll need to determine the required power draw, or wattage, of the rest of your components. You’ll also have to select a model that fits in your PC, and one that has the correct cables rails to fit your components. Then you’ll need to install it, and since the power supply is directly connected to multiple components, it’s a rather involved procedure. Let’s break it down. Picking a New Power Supply Choosing the right power supply is essential for making sure your PC runs well. Without an adequate supply of regulated electricity, your desktop might suffer from performance issues, or possibly not boot at all. How Much Power Do I Need? The amount of power a power supply delivers is measured in watts. They generally provide from around two hundred for the smallest and most efficient machines to over a thousand one kilowatt for the biggest, beefiest gaming and media desktops. Determining how much power you need is a matter of adding up the power draw from all of your components. The biggest two power draws on a PC are typically CPU and graphics card. That’s assuming you use a graphics card, of course—not all PCs have a separate card, and sometimes even a discrete card is low-power enough to draw its electricity directly from the motherboard. But if your PC is built for gaming or even light media editing duties, you’ll need to account for it. Other components also draw power, including hard drives, optical drives, and cooling systems like fans or radiators. These are typically require much lower power, and can usually get away with rough estimates. If you want to estimate your power requirements, look at the specifications of each component in particular. For example, our test machine at How-To Geek uses an Intel Core i7-7700K processor. On Intel’s website, we see that the processor draws an average of 91 watts under high load. Here are the power requirements for the rest of our test build’s components Processor 91 watts Graphics card Radeon RX 460 114 watts at peak Motherboard 40-80 watts RAM under 5 watts per DIMM – estimate 20 watts for our build SSD under 10 watts 120mm fan for CPU cooler under 10 watts Based on these general figures, we can estimate that the How-To Geek desktop won’t use more than 350 watts under its full load. And since the graphics card specifications recommend at least a 400 watt power supply, that’s where we’ll start. A margin of error is a handy thing to have, not to mention the fact that having a little extra power gives you room to add more components in the future—like extra storage drives or cooling fans. If you’re not entirely sure about your PC’s power supply needs, check out this handy online calculator. Just plug in your components and it gives you a recommended wattage. Add a little bit for a safety margin, and you have wattage you need your PSU to deliver. What Form Factor Should I Choose? After you’ve determined how much power you need, you’ll need to find a power supply that physically fits in your computer. That’s what “form factor” means there are a few standardized sizes for power supplies, and odds are that one of them will fit the case you’re already using. The most common size for power supplies is “ATX”—the same standard name for a consumer-grade “tower” computer. These fit into almost all full-sized desktop computers, and you’ll find them ranging in power from around 300 watts all the way up to 850 watts. Some ATX-standard power supplies are longer than normal, stretching to eight or ten inches long, but keeping their width and height standardized. These are the monsters that can power high-end CPUs, multiple GPUs, arrays of storage drives, and a wind tunnel’s worth of cooling fans, stretching from 900 watts all the way up to 1200 watts and beyond. Sometimes these extra-large ATX power supplies will have trouble fitting into a standard case, and require oversized “gaming” or workstation cases. Unless you specifically bought or built your computer to have a ton of power, you probably don’t have to worry about it. If you do have a monster PC, look up the case’s specifications it will let you know the maximum dimensions of the power supply bay. On the opposite end of the spectrum, some cases are too small for even a normal-sized ATX power supply. These include “small form factor” cases and those that are meant to hold smaller standardized motherboards, like Micro-ATX and Mini-ITX. These power supplied generally top out at around 400 watts, though some more expensive and more powerful units are made. At this size things can get confusing, since some enthusiast Mini-ITX cases can also fit a full-sized ATX power supply for beefy gamer configurations. SFX and TFX power supplies are for small, compact cases. If you go even smaller, things tend to get non-standardized, and you’ll want to look for a replacement for your specific model. If you’re upgrading because you don’t have enough power in your current power supply and your case won’t accept anything bigger, you’ll likely need to upgrade your case as well, and move all of your other components into it. At this point, a complete PC replacement might be more practical. What Cables Do I Need? The cables that run from your power supply to the various components in your PC generally standardized, but there are three crucial types you want to check for compatibility with your specific machine Main motherboard cable This cable runs directly from your power supply to your motherboard, and plugs into the board using 20 or 24 pin plug. Most high-end power supplies have 20 pin plug, plus an additional 4 pin plug so that you can plug it into either type of motherboard. It’s worth paying attention to how many pins your motherboard uses and making sure you buy a power supply that can handle it. CPU motherboard cable This cable also runs to the motherboard, but is used to power your CPU. These come in 4, 6, and 8 pin varieties. Some high-end motherboards offer combinations like an 8-pin and additional 4-pin connection to spread out the voltage, but these are rare. GPU power cables These cables run from your power supply directly to a graphics card. If you don’t use a graphics card, or if the card you use doesn’t require separate power, then you don’t need to worry about these. Graphics cards that do require separate power use either a 6 or 8 pin plug. Some of the bigger cards even require two cables. Most power supplies powerful enough to run gaming rigs offer a pair of cables for your graphics card even if you only need one of them, and offer a 6 pin plug with an additional 2 pin plug so they can accomodate whatever card you use. It’s something to watch out for, though. You’ll also need cables for other components hard drives, optical drives, case fans, and so on. Modern storage and optical drives use standardized SATA power connections, and every modern power supply includes them. Case fans typically use 3 or 4 pin plugs, and again, modern power supplies usually come with at least one of these. Older drives or fans may use a 4-pin Molex connector, with larger pins and a trapezoidal plug. Many power supplies offer a rail or adapters for these, but if the model you’ve chosen doesn’t, Molex adapters are cheap and easy to find. What About Efficiency? Modern power supplies include an efficiency rating, usually indicated by the “80 Plus” voluntary certification system. This indicates that the power supply consumes no more than 20% over its output wattage; if you buy a 400 watt power supply, at full load it won’t consume more than 500 watts from your home’s electrical system. Compliance with the 80 Plus system is indicated by a sticker on the power supply, and usually advertised as a feature on the box or online listing. There are different grades of the 80 Plus sticker standard, bronze, silver, gold, platinum, and titanium. Each higher level indicates a higher point of efficiency, and generally a higher price. Almost all power supplies sold at retail reach the minimum 80 Plus requirement. Your power supply’s efficiency rating won’t affect its output—if you buy a 400 watt supply, it will deliver 400 watts to your computer, no matter how much it draws from the power outlet. But those wishing to save some money on their power bills in the long term may want to shop for a higher-rated supply. Modular Power Supplies Are Awesome Modular power supplies allow the power rails from the PSU to be unplugged both at the component side and on the power supply side. A full modular system. By comparison, a non-modular design has a big bundle of power cables permanently affixed to the steel box of the power supply itself. A non-modular power supply, with permanently-affixed cables. The advantage of a modular supply is that you don’t have to have cables in your case that you don’t need. This makes running the power cables easier, keeps things looking tidier, and helping preserve good air flow in the case. The only real downside of modular supplies is that tend to be a bit more expensive, and they’re usually only offered on higher-end power supplies. You’ll also find semi-modular designs, with permanent rails for common components like the motherboard and CPU but modular rails for the rest. They can be a handy compromise. Installing Your New Power Supply So you’ve picked out your power supply and you’re ready to install it. You’ll need a standard Philips-head screwdriver and a clean, well-lit place to work. If your home or office is particularly susceptible to static electricity, you might also want an anti-static bracelet. Oh, and before you go any further DO NOT OPEN THE METAL CASING OF THE POWER SUPPLY ITSELF. There are high-power capacitors inside that can injure or kill you if they discharge. For the same reason, don’t stick any tools or wires inside the holes for the cooling fan or exhaust, either. Removing the Old Power Supply Power down your PC, remove all the power and data cables, and then move it to your work area. You’ll want to remove any access panels from the case on some PCs, you have to remove the whole case as one piece. On a standard ATX case, these are on the right and left sides, held in place with screws on the back of the computer. Remove these screws two or three on a side, then pull back the access panels and set them aside. If you use a small form factor or other non-standard case, consult the manual. Remove as much of the exterior panels as you can to give yourself maximum access to the interior you’ll need to unplug power cables from multiple components. Now, identify all of the components plugged into your power supply. On a standard PC build, this will be Motherboard long 20 or 24 pin plug. CPU on the motherboard 4 or 8 pin plug, near the top of the motherboard. You may need to remove the CPU cooler to see this if it’s an oversized cooler. Storage drives Hard drives and solid-state drives, usually plugged in with a standard SATA cable. Multiple drives may be connected to one cable. Optical drives Also use a standard SATA cable. Older models may use a Molex adapter. Graphics cards larger, more powerful discrete cards draw power directly from the power supply, even though they’re plugged into the motherboard. 6 pin and 8 pin rails are common, with some high-end cards needing multiple rails. Case fans and radiators When not plugged into the motherboard or case itself, these fans can draw power from accessory rails using small 4 pin connections or older Molex connections. Check from both sides of your PC and multiple angles excess lengths of power and data cables are often stored behind the metal motherboard mounting tray. When you’ve identified which components are plugged into your power supply, unplug them one by one. Some may be held in place with plastic tabs, but you shouldn’t need to use anything except your fingers to unplug them. If you have to remove anything to get to these plugs, especially data cables, remember their original positions and restore them as you have access. Taking pictures as you go is a great idea. If your power supply is modular, you also can remove the power rails from the back of the power supply housing. Carefully pull them free of the PC case itself and set them aside. If your power supply isn’t modular, simply pull all the power rails to the most accessible open space and make sure they’re free of entanglements with anything else in the case. Now turn your attention to the back of the PC. The power supply is held in place with three to five screws that are accessible from the outside of the PC case. Remove them and set them aside. Some case designs differ; if you see more screws in non-standard locations on the power supply, remove them too. With all the cables unplugged and the retention screws removed, you can now pull the power supply free of the case. Depending on where the power supply is placed top or bottom of the case and what other components are nearby, pulling it out of the case might be easy or might be challenging. If it’s near the top of the case and it’s crowded by an oversized CPU cooler, for example, you might end up having to remove that cooler so you can get the power supply out. Installing the New Power Supply Now, we’re going to reverse the process. Place the new power supply in position in your PC. If it’s modular, don’t plug anything into it. If it isn’t modular, simply trail the power cables outside of the PC for easy access. You’ll want to position the exhaust fan on the top or bottom of the power supply so that it’s facing away from the motherboard and the other internal components. So if the power supply is mounted at the top of the case, point the exhaust fan up. If it’s bottom-mounted, point it down. If the exhaust fan blows out the back of the case, it doesn’t matter. Secure the power supply to the rear of the PC case with the retention screws, screwing from the outside of the case into the metal housing of the power supply. Use the screws from the previous power supply if you’re replacing it, otherwise the screws should have come with either your PC case or the power supply itself. When the power supply is fixed in place, it’s time to plug in all those cables. If your power supply is modular, plug the cables into their sockets on the back of the supply itself. Now plug the opposite end of the rails into their corresponding components. These components are fairly standardized motherboard, motherboard-CPU, storage drives and disc drives, GPU if applicable, and case fans or radiators if they’re not already plugged in. You should be able to plug everything in without any further tools. If something isn’t plugging in all the way, check the orientation of the plug; all of the multi-pin cables should only be able to fit one way. As you’re plugging in components, be wary of where you run the power cables. The inside of your PC doesn’t have to look like a showroom, but you should make sure that power and data cables don’t trail near cooling fans they can drag and tangle. Even if they’re only touching slightly, they’ll make an annoying noise once your PC is running and potentially strip the protective casing. Also, keeping cables as tidy as you can not only looks better, it helps promote good airflow inside your case and makes components easier for you to get to in the future. Once you’re sure everything’s plugged in, you might want to move your PC back to its normal position with your mouse, keyboard, and monitor before closing up. Being careful not to touch any of the interior components while it’s running, plug everything in and power it up, just to make sure it’s booting correctly. If not, then go back and check your connections again to make sure you haven’t missed a power plug or accidentally removed a data cable. Oh, and check the switch on the back of the power supply to make sure it’s in the “ON” position. If everything looks good, then unplug the external cables, close up the access panels, and screw them into place to get your PC ready for normal operation. Then place it back in its usual spot, and enjoy your new power supply. Image credit Amazon, Newegg READ NEXT › Which Old Components Can You Reuse When Building a New PC?› Intel’s New CPU Can Hit On a Single Core› How to Test the Power Supply Unit PSU in Your PC› The Best Power Supply Units PSUs in 2023› How To Upgrade or Replace Almost Any PC Component› How To Upgrade and Install a New CPU or Motherboard or Both› Where You Should Splurge When Building a PC and Where You Shouldn’t› Intel Is Dropping the “I” With 14th Gen CPUs

bisa. karena 1 baterai tamiya hanya 1,5 volt.. maka source trafo juga harus sekitar 1,5 sampai 2 volt. kalo tidak ada bisa diakalin dengan trafo yg tidak CT seperti diatas, tp kabel yg dari value/angka "0" di pindah di value "12", jadi yg dihubungkan 12 dan 15 volt, akan menghasilkan 3 volt. ada baiknya diberi elco biar pengisian stabil dan

[H]ardWare Cases & Case Modding Electronics You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites should upgrade or use an alternative browser. 24V from a PSU? Thread starter Willsonman Start date May 19, 2007 1 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 Looking at a solution for my case mod issue and am looking at a part that requires 24 volts. is there any way to place a series circuit to get this? Any other way to get 24V? 2 Joined Aug 12, 2005 Messages 3,679 You could be very very lazy and do a probably bad for everything involved ganging together of two 12V sources from the PSU. Other than that, I believe there are voltage multiplying/doubling circuits rectifiers maybe, but I haven't gotten that far yet in my studies. One of the other guys who usually eat these questions alive will probably post a better answer. Mohonri, cpenna, the other EE/CEs/electric guys. 3 Joined Apr 23, 2002 Messages 4,363 ATX power-supplies output +12V and -12V... just take the diff between these AS long as the resultant object didn't need to be reference to 0V AND you don't exceed the current-rating of the relevant rail -12V seems to always have lower power capability 4 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 well, It will be powering a linear actuator... so not in use all the time. I imagine it will operate off 12V but at a decrease in lifting capacity. How would you wire up the +12V and -12V to get 24V? 5 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 There is 24 VDC between the blue -12V and yellow +12V PSU wires. Your circuit cannot rely on the 24VDC being referenced to Ground however, and is only good for amps maximum. 6 Joined Jan 10, 2001 Messages 168 You could be very very lazy and do a probably bad for everything involved ganging together of two 12V sources from the PSU. Putting two molex 0V & 12V pairs in series in an attempt to get 24V is guaranteed to cause a bang. What current do you need? As said, the -12V rail is a low rating, read the PSU label for your figure. 7 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 Another option which I have sucessfully used is a 12V DC-DC converter with an isolated output, powered from PSU 12VDC. If you need 24VDC referenced to ground connect the negative voltage output to your PSU +12VDC, and your load between PSU ground and the DC-DC converter positive output. 8 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 No offense intended, but what movax is suggesting is a very good way to at a minimum blow a fuse in your power supply. Using the -12V rail from an older PSU is also not recommended, because the current rating is very low for that rail. The -12V rail was only used for negative signals on things like serial ports, not for actually powering anything. IMO, your best bet is to actually get a real 24V power supply that can source the kind of current you need. 9 FLECOM Modderator & [H]ardest Folder Evar Joined Jun 27, 2001 Messages 15,773 No offense intended, but what movax is suggesting is a very good way to at a minimum blow a fuse in your power supply. Using the -12V rail from an older PSU is also not recommended, because the current rating is very low for that rail. The -12V rail was only used for negative signals on things like serial ports, not for actually powering anything. IMO, your best bet is to actually get a real 24V power supply that can source the kind of current you need. i agree, most -12v rails on powersupplies are an afterthought at best... i wouldent really recommend using it for anything that is actually going to draw any current... just get yourself a small 24v switching supply from an electronics surplus place and hide it away somewhere and you should be good to go 10 Joined Jun 10, 2005 Messages 25,068 Up convert with a DC to DC converter. IT's the only way if your actuator draws more then .25a or so... I wouldn't trust it otherwise. What movax suggested will cause a major problem... so steer clear. I tried this once with USB ports... wanted to get 10v... It only works with batteries, and seperate sources of power. Since almost all 12v lines come from the same place in the PSU and all grounds go back to common you will get a big spark, and a fire. 11 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 alright, I'm fine with a dc-dc converter. Anyone know where to get one that I would need? 12 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 and are good sources for DC-DC converters. You'll want one that has an input voltage range that your PC can supply typically rated 9V-18V, and has an output current rating suitable for what you are going to power it's best to have some headroom... it you need 1 amp, buy one that has amp output, and MOST IMPORTANT... isolated output. As I touched on earlier, you would connect it like this for 24VDC referenced to PC power supply ground DC-DC converter + input to PSU +12V DC-DC converter - input to PSU Ground DC-DC converter + output to whatever you are powering DC-DC converter - output to PSU +12V Ground for whatever you are powering to PSU ground That will give you 24VDC to whatever you are powering. You'll want some filtering too or the output tends to oscillate. Put a 10uF capacitor across the input and across the output. 13 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 What exactly prevents the OP from putting two 12V molex connectors into a series and then hookup to the load? 14 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 You mean two 12V molex from a standard ATX power supply? The problem would be connecting yellow on one to black on the other, thus shorting out the power supply. 15 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 You mean two 12V molex from a standard ATX power supply? The problem would be connecting yellow on one to black on the other, thus shorting out the power supply. Yeah I guess it wouldn't work because they have a common ground unlike a battery for example. But what about mains inside your house? You know how you have 220v for your appliances? IIRC they take two 120v lines and combine it into one so I guess it could work that way. 16 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 Yeah I guess it wouldn't work because they have a common ground unlike a battery for example. But what about mains inside your house? You know how you have 220v for your appliances? IIRC they take two 120v lines and combine it into one so I guess it could work that way. There's a world of difference here between your computer PSU and your house mains. As in Westinghouse vs. Edison difference-the power in your computer is DC, while the mains is AC. You're right about how they get 240VAC in your house-there's typically actually two 120VAC lines and a neutral coming into your house. The two AC lines are 180 degrees out of phase, so the voltage difference between the two is 240V. But that's completely unrelated to what we're working with here. Except that we're still pushing electrons through metal wires.... 17 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 There's a world of difference here between your computer PSU and your house mains. As in Westinghouse vs. Edison difference-the power in your computer is DC, while the mains is AC. You're right about how they get 240VAC in your house-there's typically actually two 120VAC lines and a neutral coming into your house. The two AC lines are 180 degrees out of phase, so the voltage difference between the two is 240V. But that's completely unrelated to what we're working with here. Except that we're still pushing electrons through metal wires.... Yes I know house mains are are AC while computers are DC but that doesn't mean you can't add up electrical sources in order to increase amperage or voltage. 18 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 Yes I know house mains are are AC while computers are DC but that doesn't mean you can't add up electrical sources in order to increase amperage or voltage. It depends on how the electrical sources are built. Batteries and depending on phase AC power, yes. Wall-connected DC power supplies...it depends on how their wired. If they're properly isolated, then yes. But I wouldn't count on that being the case for a computer PSU, since the ground on the PSU is often connected to the case ground. It *might* be possible to get 24V using two PSUs, but I wouldn't count on it. I guess you could get a couple of el-cheapo PSUs and try it out. Just wear safety glasses . 19 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 It *might* be possible to get 24V using two PSUs, but I wouldn't count on it. I have tried it... you get sparks. The DC-DC converter idea works though. I used a few when I needed -12V at amps for some computers at work. 20 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 I have tried it... you get sparks. The DC-DC converter idea works though. I used a few when I needed -12V at amps for some computers at work. Yeah because they share a common ground. My idea would be to emulate that of house wiring where they have 1 common ground and 2 "hot". So I guess you'd hook up the two 12v molex connectors and then finish the circuit out to the ground. 21 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 My idea would be to emulate that of house wiring where they have 1 common ground and 2 "hot". So I guess you'd hook up the two 12v molex connectors and then finish the circuit out to the ground. The reason you can "stack" the two circuits in your house is that one is the opposite voltage of the other. For AC, that's the same as being 180 degrees out of phase. The difference sinx - -1*sinx = 2sinxgives you twice the voltage difference. We don't have that same luxury with a DC PSU. If the second rail were -12V, then sure, we could connect the two grounds together and get 24VDC out. But both of the rails are +12V with respect to the same ground. If I'm understanding you correctly, you're suggesting that you could tie the 12V line from one molex connector to the GND line of another molex connector, and that the "12V" line on the second connector would then be at 24V relative to the GND of the first connector. Is that what you're suggesting? If so, please don't try it. Since the 12V lines from both molex connectors come from the same solder pad inside the PSU, and the GND lines also come from a common solder pad, if you connect one 12V line to a different GND line, you're shorting out the PSU. 22 Joined Jan 24, 2006 Messages 1,171 The reason you can "stack" the two circuits in your house is that one is the opposite voltage of the other. For AC, that's the same as being 180 degrees out of phase. The difference sinx - -1*sinx = 2sinxgives you twice the voltage difference. We don't have that same luxury with a DC PSU. If the second rail were -12V, then sure, we could connect the two grounds together and get 24VDC out. But both of the rails are +12V with respect to the same ground. If I'm understanding you correctly, you're suggesting that you could tie the 12V line from one molex connector to the GND line of another molex connector, and that the "12V" line on the second connector would then be at 24V relative to the GND of the first connector. Is that what you're suggesting? If so, please don't try it. Since the 12V lines from both molex connectors come from the same solder pad inside the PSU, and the GND lines also come from a common solder pad, if you connect one 12V line to a different GND line, you're shorting out the PSU. You say that you can do that with AC because they're 180* out of phase, but wouldn't they be perfectly within phase if they both come from the same panel? My electrician says you take two 10gauge lines, combine the hot and then you'd have 220v. But since they both come from the same panel, I don't see how they'd be out of phase like you're saying. 23 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 You say that you can do that with AC because they're 180* out of phase, but wouldn't they be perfectly within phase if they both come from the same panel? My electrician says you take two 10gauge lines, combine the hot and then you'd have 220v. But since they both come from the same panel, I don't see how they'd be out of phase like you're saying. They may come from the same panel, but they're not the same source. In order to get both 120V and 240V, you have to run three wires into the house a common neutral and two AC lines, which are 180 degrees out of phase with one another. Those two 120V lines then feed different circuits for most things in your house. Around half the circuits will be on one and half on the other, all of them connected to 120VAC on one end and the common neutral at the other. Where there is a need for 240V, the plug is wired to one 120VAC line on one side and the other 120VAC line on the other. The difference between those two lines gives you 240VAC. I don't know exactly what words your electrician said, but you might be misunderstanding them. In a way, yes, you're combining the two "hot" wires, I guess. 24 FLECOM Modderator & [H]ardest Folder Evar Joined Jun 27, 2001 Messages 15,773 You say that you can do that with AC because they're 180* out of phase, but wouldn't they be perfectly within phase if they both come from the same panel? My electrician says you take two 10gauge lines, combine the hot and then you'd have 220v. But since they both come from the same panel, I don't see how they'd be out of phase like you're saying. if you look at your panel you will see that there are two hots, and the "dual" breakers for your 240v lines are taking one from each hot... you cant take two lines from the same hot and get 240... you would get 0 between them actually, since they are in phase... 25 Joined Oct 29, 2005 Messages 715 Can we back this thread up to about post 14? 26 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 I agree... but I figured out another way to do what I want to do and it no longer involves trying to get 24V. Shall I just close the thread? 27 Joined Jul 29, 2005 Messages 5,770 I agree... but I figured out another way to do what I want to do and it no longer involves trying to get 24V. Shall I just close the thread? Care to share what you did to make it work? no need to close the thread, just let it die on its own 28 Joined Jun 11, 2005 Messages 1,195 Well, I was trying to make the doors in my Delorean worklog to open by themselves and hit a dead end as to what I should do. I found some linear actuators on ebay for cheap that ran off 24V. I was not liking the option just because it was too bulky and complicated not to mention pricey for what I was planning on doing. I found another way to lift the doors, hopefully. I just wanted to know if I could have made those linear actuators work before I bought them. Glad I did not actually. [H]ardWare Cases & Case Modding Electronics

Dalampembahasan kali ini kita akan menyimak skema variable power supply 5a sampai 10a dengan kisaran tegangan beragam. Sehingga akan memudahkan dalam pengaturan tegangan yang ada, contohnya adalah diagram sirkuit Power Supply variabel 0-30V. Karena Anda dapat mengatur tegangan output dari 0V ke 30V, pada arus 3A, dan perlindungan yang

Seiring dengan perkembangan teknologi, kebutuhan akan daya listrik semakin meningkat. Salah satu cara untuk memenuhi kebutuhan tersebut adalah dengan menggunakan power supply unit PSU yang memiliki daya yang lebih besar. Namun, tidak semua PSU memiliki daya yang cukup besar. Oleh karena itu, modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt menjadi salah satu solusi yang dapat artikel ini, kami akan membahas tentang cara modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt. Kami akan memberikan tips, berita, dan tutorial yang dapat membantu Anda untuk memodifikasi PSU komputer Anda Itu PSU Komputer?PSU Power Supply Unit adalah sebuah perangkat keras yang berfungsi untuk mengatur dan menyalurkan daya listrik ke seluruh komponen dalam komputer. PSU komputer biasanya memiliki daya yang bervariasi, mulai dari 300 watt hingga 1200 watt. Semakin besar daya yang dibutuhkan, semakin besar pula daya yang harus disediakan oleh PSU Harus Menjadi 24 Volt?Ada beberapa alasan mengapa PSU komputer harus diubah menjadi 24 volt. Salah satunya adalah untuk memenuhi kebutuhan daya yang lebih besar. PSU komputer yang sudah diubah menjadi 24 volt mampu menyediakan daya yang lebih besar dibandingkan dengan PSU komputer yang belum itu, modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt juga dapat membantu menghemat biaya. PSU komputer yang memiliki daya yang lebih besar biasanya lebih mahal. Dengan melakukan modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt, Anda dapat menghemat biaya tanpa harus membeli PSU Cara Modifikasi PSU Komputer Menjadi 24 Volt?Modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt tidaklah sulit. Anda hanya perlu mengikuti langkah-langkah berikutLangkah 1 Persiapan Alat dan BahanSebelum memulai modifikasi, pastikan Anda sudah menyiapkan alat dan bahan yang diperlukan. Berikut adalah daftar alat dan bahan yang diperlukanSolder besiKawat tembagaResistor 10 ohmDiode 1N4007Kabel listrikPlat aluminiumHeat sinkLangkah 2 Membuka Casing PSUPertama-tama, buka casing PSU komputer Anda. Pastikan Anda sudah mematikan semua sumber daya dan melepaskan kabel listrik dari stopkontak sebelum membuka casing 3 Membuat RangkaianSetelah casing PSU terbuka, carilah rangkaian DC-DC converter yang terdapat di dalam PSU. Lepaskan rangkaian tersebut dari PCB dan hubungkan rangkaian tersebut dengan resistor 10 ohm dan diode 4 Memasang Plat Aluminium dan Heat SinkSetelah rangkaian terpasang, pasang plat aluminium dan heat sink pada rangkaian tersebut. Hal ini bertujuan untuk mengurangi suhu yang dihasilkan oleh 5 Memasang Kabel ListrikSetelah itu, pasang kabel listrik pada rangkaian yang sudah terpasang. Pastikan kabel listrik sudah terpasang dengan benar dan tidak ada kabel yang semua kabel terpasang dengan benar, tutup casing PSU dan pasang kembali semua bagian yang sudah dilepas sebelumnya. Pasang kabel listrik ke stopkontak dan sumber daya Anda sudah siap PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt dapat menjadi solusi untuk memenuhi kebutuhan daya yang lebih besar. Selain itu, modifikasi ini juga dapat membantu menghemat biaya. Dalam melakukan modifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt, pastikan Anda sudah menyiapkan alat dan bahan yang diperlukan dan mengikuti langkah-langkah dengan artikel ini bermanfaat bagi Anda yang ingin memodifikasi PSU komputer menjadi 24 volt.
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    • modif psu komputer jadi 24 volt